Haider Ackermann – Autumn Leaves

With Haider Ackermann‘s standing ovation after his Fall 2012 runway, it is no wonder that this skilled designer is rumored to be the next creative director at Dior. Bringing forth passion and raw sexuality from his Columbian heritage, his keen eye for color was the true show-stopper. The autumnal color palette could be seen in chocolate brown leather, burgundy felted wool, mauve and sage colored satin, meribel gold infused with pumpkin orange and oxblood red; and heard, with “Autumn leaves” by Frank Sinatra playing sonorously and smoothly in the background.

These deep, moody neutrals ruled the runway which, balanced with the designers love of wrapping, created a salable line that emulated the Ackermann sex appeal. Artful draping created thigh high slits and cleavage bearing V-necks that were sensual without being too revealing. Subtly elognated silhouettes set the focus on a feminine waste, cinched with large leather belts that added a touch of playfulness under draped and folded coats.

Polished pairing brimmed with fluid blousing, peaked peplums, generous slits, and a plethora of sharply cut blazers also dictated the runway. Leather coats and jackets with motorcycle detailing likewise had the audience on the edge or their seats. This season, Ackermann excelled at offering a collection that felt modern, powerful, directional; and sublimely feminine and sensual.