Ladylike Dressing 2011/2012
Just a few years ago, couture was facing what many pundits called an ‘identity crisis’. Before that, it seemed that the entire world was predicting its imminent extinction for A/W encompasses the new ladylike dressing that has been presenting itself over the past several seasons the look is refined and opulent with references coming from many different decades in the history of fashion. This trend is definitely channeling the opulence of the past signifying a sign of hope and commerce in current history.
Brocade and Wallpaper fabrics were featured at Giles Deacon, Dries Van Noten and Alexander McQueen. Most channeled an opulent Baroque feel paired with high collars and furs while Jonathan Saunders created a modern interpretation with fabric blocking and bold colours. Look for ladylike silhouettes in this fabric: tunic dresses, drapey gowns, pencil skirts and cropped trousers. The fabrication will mostly be used on dresses and skirts and you can expect this opulent fabric to come around again as trends switch from modern and minimal to opulent and decadent.
Lace has been gaining popularity on the runway for a few years now and it doesn’t seem to be going away as a trend any time soon. For A/W the laces are delicate and have a vintage quality to them referencing the 40′s and 50′s. Within this trend, look for lace to be layered over dressier fabrics such as chiffon and satin for an elegant feel while also pairing with the transparency trend that has been so huge Women have been holding back for years in regard to opulent fashion, and this season, we think women are ready to get back into the glamour of it all Fur is a huge trend for the Fall season and has been featured in a few of our top ten trends broken into different classifications.
Within Refined Opulence, fur is used more as an accessory or a trim. The A/W 2011-12 seasons that concluded the romantic opulence that enveloped the shows of Givenchy, Valentino and Elie Saab and the savage beauty which framed collections by Jean Paul Gaultier, Giambattista Valli and Alexis Mabille.
Or the discreet daywear favoured by the likes of Armani Prive, Chanel and Bouchra Jarrar. But for all the lavish detail and dramatic cuts that occupied this season’s wide spectrum of design, there were two which clearly stood out from the crowd. The houses of Azzedine Alaïa and Christian Dior sat on either end of the spectrum, representing two extremes of couture’s evolving identity.